What: Simply Pinot Noir
Why: For those seeking the elegance of Burgundy
Perfect with: Flavourful cured meats, white meats and oily grilled fish
What: Simply Pinot Noir
Why: For those seeking the elegance of Burgundy
Perfect with: Flavourful cured meats, white meats and oily grilled fish
France
Julien Cruchandeau, 2 Rte de Marey, 21700 Villers-la-Faye
Among the vineyards of the Côte d'Or, one can discover small dry-stone huts appearing almost like mushrooms from the ground. They are called Cabottes and once served as shelter for winegrowers during storms or the hottest hours of the day. Julien Cruchandeau dedicated this wine precisely to these silent guardians of the Burgundian landscape. A tribute to the simplicity and daily hard work of those who cultivate the land with respect. We are in Villers-La-Faye, a village located in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. Here Burgundy reveals its most authentic and least polished face. The soils are a complex blend of clay and limestone, giving the wines a vibrant mineral tension. Julien Cruchandeau is a modern producer who chose to settle here in 2003. The protagonist in the bottle is Pinot Noir, an old acquaintance for lovers of elegance. In Burgundy, this grape variety finds its natural habitat and succeeds in translating every subtle variation of the soil into different aromatic nuances. In this case, the grapes come from organically farmed vineyards. The vines work hard to extract the saline character of the limestone subsoil. The grapes are destemmed in order to avoid harsh tannins or overly green notes. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. Before fermentation begins, the must undergoes a cold maceration lasting around ten days. This technique allows colour and primary aromas to be extracted without weighing down the structure. The wine then rests for at least six months on its fine lees, again in stainless steel. Bright and transparent ruby red in colour, the nose clearly recalls freshly picked red berries. Sour cherry, raspberry and a delicate touch of white pepper can all be recognised. On the palate it is lively and fresh. The drinkability is so effortless that a bottle could disappear in the blink of an eye. The tannins are silky and only lightly hinted at. The finish is clean, with a coherent fruity return that immediately invites another sip. When it comes to food pairings, simplicity is the key – perhaps a platter of cured meats or roast chicken.
There are stories that seem written to prove that talent knows no boundaries. Julien Cruchandeau’s is one of them. Before becoming one of the most interesting names in contemporary Burgundy winemaking, Julien lived a completely different life. He was an electronic music artist, founded a record label and travelled the world performing more than 200 concerts. Then, in 2003, Julien decided to change the score entirely and founded his own Domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges, at the heart of the Côte de Nuits. Today he manages around 5 hectares of vineyards stretching across both legendary areas and lesser-known – yet equally fascinating – appellations such as the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and Bouzeron. In the vineyard, work follows the principles of organic farming, certified since 2011, banning chemical fertilisers and pesticides in order to allow the ecosystem to find its own natural balance. In the cellar, fermentations occur spontaneously thanks to indigenous yeasts, while the use of sulphur is kept to the absolute minimum necessary.
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