In Beaujolais there is a hill so unique that it gave rise to a specific term used to describe the evolution of its wines. People say that a wine “morgons” when, over the years, it leaves behind the simple notes of fresh fruit and develops an earthy, profound complexity that almost recalls the great Pinot Noirs of the Côte d'Or. The Morgon AOC Vieilles Vignes from Domaine Romuald Petit takes us right into the beating heart of this transformation. Although the estate is based in Saint-Véran, in the Mâconnais, Romuald chose to challenge himself with one of the most prestigious and structured Crus of Beaujolais. Here, the landscape is dominated by the “Roche Pourrie”, a decomposed rock made of schist and iron oxide that gives the wines an extraordinary power and ageing potential for the region. The term “Vieilles Vignes” refers to old vines with deep roots dating back decades, capable of extracting every subtle mineral nuance from the soil. Do not expect a light, carefree wine. Here, the AOC imposes standards focused entirely on ageing ability and faithfulness to the terroir, clearly distinguishing itself from the more commercial and easy-drinking styles produced elsewhere in the region. Pure Gamay, which in this wine sheds its more playful character to reveal its darker and more fascinating side. The grapes are only partially destemmed, leaving a small proportion of stems that help provide structure and freshness during fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Maceration lasts between 10 and 15 days, a prolonged period that allows colour and tannins to fully develop. Finally, the wine rests for 10 months in oak barrels, an essential step in taming the energy of the Gamay and smoothing its edges. Deep ruby red, almost impenetrable, with beautiful violet reflections. On the nose, a concert of small black fruits such as blackberry and blueberry, enriched by notes of violet and a hint of black pepper. With time in the glass, that ferrous mineral note emerges, the authentic signature of the Morgon terroir. On the palate it is full and fleshy, with present yet extremely silky tannins and a finish reminiscent of liquorice.