Spect.
Suckl.
What: Chardonnay from eight different vintages
Why: The essence of the Côte des Blancs
Perfect with: Raw seafood, light fried dishes and aperitifs
Wine Spectator
James Suckling
What: Chardonnay from eight different vintages
Why: The essence of the Côte des Blancs
Perfect with: Raw seafood, light fried dishes and aperitifs
France
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils - 1, rue de la République – 51530 CUIS - France
Champagne Pierre Gimonnet & Fils is no ordinary name in the Côte des Blancs, but a signature that has embodied the spirit of this unique terroir since 1750. We are in Cuis, a small Champagne village where chalk rises almost to the surface, giving the wines a mineral character that feels almost electric. This area has long been considered the birthplace of the purest Blanc de Blancs. Here, the Gimonnet family tends 28 hectares of Premier and Grand Cru vineyards with a level of care that could only be described as obsessive — and in the best possible way. The Premier Cru classification of this cuvée identifies vineyards of exceptional quality, capable of producing grapes with a flawless balance between acidity and structure. Made exclusively from Chardonnay, the king of white grape varieties, this label is a masterful blend of no fewer than eight different vintages. The meeting of youthful energy and the complexity of reserve wines is the hallmark of a maison determined to offer a flawless experience every single time a bottle is opened. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand to preserve the integrity of the fruit before being gently pressed. Following alcoholic and malolactic fermentation at controlled temperatures, the wine rests in bottle for 24 to 30 months. Cold stabilisation and a light clay filtration ensure absolute aromatic purity. Disgorgement takes place around three months before release, with a very restrained dosage. This delicate touch allows the terroir to express itself without interference. In the glass it shines with a bright straw-yellow colour and vivid green reflections. On the nose, white wildflowers lead into fresh citrus notes before finishing on classic hints of brioche and pastry from the lees ageing. On the palate it is lively, light and remarkably refined. Its purity delivers exactly what it promises, with a persistent finish that immediately invites another sip. At the table it pairs beautifully with scallop carpaccio or delicate fried seafood. It can even handle a fresh goat’s cheese, creating a wonderfully sharp and stimulating contrast.
Today we are in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, that blessed strip of chalk-rich land where Chardonnay is not simply a grape variety but almost a religion. This is where Pierre Gimonnet & Fils shines brightest. Their story is not one of a vast commercial maison, but of a family of growers whose roots in the region stretch back to 1750. The real turning point came in 1935, when Michel Gimonnet decided to stop selling grapes to the major Champagne houses and begin vinifying his own wines. It was a bold decision that gave birth to a now legendary style: grower Blanc de Blancs of remarkable character. Today the estate is run by brothers Didier and Olivier Gimonnet, who oversee around 28 hectares of vineyards with near-obsessive precision. They are among the very few producers in Champagne whose holdings are located entirely within the Côte des Blancs, across prestigious villages such as Cuis, Cramant and Chouilly. The philosophy here is all about freshness, finesse and verticality. To achieve this, the winery embraces what could best be described as “precision craftsmanship”. One of their most distinctive practices is the ageing of reserve wines exclusively in bottle, preserving their aromatic vibrancy intact. This allows them to create blends that maintain outstanding stylistic consistency year after year. Many of the family’s vineyard parcels are over 40 years old, with some approaching a century in age. These “old ladies” produce fewer grapes, but the fruit they deliver carries extraordinary aromatic concentration and natural structure without the need for heavy-handed winemaking.
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