Is Piedmont the land of great age-worthy reds? Certainly. But also of world-class sparkling wines. Unique in the world, one could say. Unique like the hills they come from, hills envied across the globe. But let us proceed in order. Alta Langa is a territory that refuses compromise, stretching across the provinces of Asti, Alessandria and Cuneo, often at altitudes exceeding 250 metres. Here the climate is cooler and breezier than in the Barolo areas, ideal for preserving in the grapes the vibrant acidity needed to produce truly great sparkling wine. It is no coincidence that this was the first area in Italy to produce sparkling wines using the Traditional Method back in the mid-19th century, a primacy now protected by one of the strictest production regulations in the world. To bear the DOCG designation, the wine must rest on its lees for an exceptionally long time, becoming a true symbol of patient rural craftsmanship. Montalbera’s Pas Dosé is a tribute to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Choosing not to add dosage liqueur (“liqueur d’expédition”) at the end of the process means exposing the wine completely. There are no sugars to mask possible edges, only the authentic voice of the grapes and the soil. It is a technical challenge that only producers with grapes of outstanding quality can afford to undertake successfully, bringing into the glass a profile that is linear, vertical and without embellishment. In this case, bottle ageing on the lees lasts at least 30 months. This extended maturation allows the yeasts to enrich the wine’s structure, giving it the aromatic complexity that distinguishes it from any younger or more hurried sparkling wine. Bright straw yellow in colour, enhanced by an extremely fine and persistent perlage that creates a delicate crown of foam. On the nose, freshly baked bread crust and yeast dominate before making way for notes of dried fruit and a subtle floral touch. On the palate it is a blade of freshness. Salinity takes centre stage, supported by a significant structure that fills the mouth without ever becoming heavy. The finish is dry, clean and remarkably persistent.