What: From old vines and aged in barriques
Why: For those seeking the complexity of a great white wine
Perfect with: Risotto, lobster and aged cheeses
What: From old vines and aged in barriques
Why: For those seeking the complexity of a great white wine
Perfect with: Risotto, lobster and aged cheeses
France
Julien Cruchandeau, 2 Rte de Marey, 21700 Villers-la-Faye
The oldest vines seem to possess a wisdom entirely of their own. Twisted trunks and roots plunging deep into the heart of the earth. In Burgundy, these “Vieilles Vignes” are considered an invaluable treasure, capable of producing grapes with a depth that younger vines can only dream of. Julien Cruchandeau selected precisely these historic vineyards to create a white wine that is a true hymn to longevity and patient craftsmanship. We are in Villers-La-Faye, an area of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits where limestone soils and altitude create the perfect conditions for slow and steady ripening. Julien, a producer who combines technical precision with a passion for terroir, works these plots with almost obsessive care. The grape variety is pure Chardonnay, the undisputed king of white Burgundy. In this case, the advanced age of the vines naturally reduces the quantity of bunches while exponentially increasing their aromatic concentration. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in order not to lose the most delicate aromas. The wine is then transferred into barriques for ageing, with 20% new oak. This proportion is carefully designed to give structure and a subtle spicy note without ever overpowering the wine’s minerality. A delicate balance, almost a sleight of hand between the strength of oak and the finesse of the juice. Bright golden yellow in colour, the nose moves from melted butter and toasted hazelnut to the freshness of candied lemon and acacia blossom. On the palate it is broad, almost buttery, yet supported by a saline streak that makes it incredibly dynamic. The finish is long and persistent, with lingering echoes of vanilla and flint that never tire the palate. Already excellent today, this Chardonnay has remarkable ageing potential. It can rest comfortably in the cellar for 6 to 8 years, evolving towards even more complex and honeyed notes. It is a wine that knows exactly how to wait for the perfect moment to amaze guests.
There are stories that seem written to prove that talent knows no boundaries. Julien Cruchandeau’s is one of them. Before becoming one of the most interesting names in contemporary Burgundy winemaking, Julien lived a completely different life. He was an electronic music artist, founded a record label and travelled the world performing more than 200 concerts. Then, in 2003, Julien decided to change the score entirely and founded his own Domaine in Nuits-Saint-Georges, at the heart of the Côte de Nuits. Today he manages around 5 hectares of vineyards stretching across both legendary areas and lesser-known – yet equally fascinating – appellations such as the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and Bouzeron. In the vineyard, work follows the principles of organic farming, certified since 2011, banning chemical fertilisers and pesticides in order to allow the ecosystem to find its own natural balance. In the cellar, fermentations occur spontaneously thanks to indigenous yeasts, while the use of sulphur is kept to the absolute minimum necessary.
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