What: Chardonnay from old vines
Why: The class of great Burgundy whites with an immediate and pleasurable drinkability
Perfect with: Fried fish
What: Chardonnay from old vines
Why: The class of great Burgundy whites with an immediate and pleasurable drinkability
Perfect with: Fried fish
France
Domaine de Naisse, En Naisse, 71870 Laizé
The Mâconnais is the southernmost and sunniest part of Burgundy. And it is here, in Laizé, that Domaine de Naisse is based. “Vieilles Vignes”, meaning old vines. This is precisely the true strength of this wine. The vines from which the grapes are sourced are now over forty years old. Their roots run deep, allowing them to draw nutrients and minerality even during the driest vintages. Moreover, the terroir of Laizé is characterised by extremely stony clay-limestone soils that force the vines to struggle. And this struggle translates into an aromatic concentration that younger vines simply cannot achieve. We are within the Mâcon-Villages AOC appellation, a guarantee of quality identifying wines produced in the finest villages of the region. An appellation that, in recent years, has conquered palates around the world by offering whites of remarkable depth at prices still accessible compared to the great names of the Côte d'Or. Pure Chardonnay, the world’s noblest white grape variety, sheds its heavier buttery notes in the Mâconnais in favour of a fresher, more citrus-driven profile. The grapes are destemmed and gently pressed before undergoing temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The choice of stainless steel is essential to avoid masking the fruit with excessive oak influence. The wine then rests for at least six months on its fine lees, meaning the spent yeasts. This “élevage sur lies” gives the wine a silky texture and surprising aromatic complexity. On the nose, white flowers such as hawthorn emerge clearly, followed by notes of white peach, ripe lemon and a finish reminiscent of flint. On the palate it is broad and enveloping, almost fleshy, yet supported by a savoury streak that lengthens the sip and makes it incredibly drinkable. Want to honour it at its best? Try it with mixed fried seafood: its savoury character cuts perfectly through the richness of the fried dish. Everything else… is boring!
Today we wander through the Mâconnais, where Burgundy seems to smile with a warmth all of its own. Here, in the picturesque village of Laizé, stands Domaine de Naisse, an estate that perfectly embodies the generous spirit and relaxed elegance of southern Burgundy. In 1980, Guy Béranger decided to believe in the potential of these lands. Initially supplying grapes to a cooperative winery, Guy took the major step in 1997 and began vinifying the grapes from his own estate. It marked the beginning of a great adventure. Then, in 1999, Christophe Brenot, his son-in-law, joined the estate and today runs the winery together with his wife Elodie, Guy’s daughter. With around 20 hectares under vine, the Domaine has remained a human-sized estate, where every bottle reflects the artisanal care of the Brenot-Béranger family. Domaine de Naisse is often nicknamed “the sunniest estate in Burgundy”. This is because the vineyards stretch across a limestone plateau at around 280 metres above sea level, benefiting from an exposure that allows the grapes to achieve perfect ripeness.
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