What: Straight palate, maritime salinity
Why: Pure and elegant, symbol of Burgundy
Perfect with: Oysters, fish tartare
What: Straight palate, maritime salinity
Why: Pure and elegant, symbol of Burgundy
Perfect with: Oysters, fish tartare
France
L&C Poitout, 3 Rue du Serein, 89800 Chablis, Francia
Chablis Bienommée is a vibrant and strikingly modern Chardonnay. It comes from north-west of Dijon, in a territory unlike any other in the world of viticulture. The Poitout family works vineyards rooted deep in Kimmeridgian soils, a unique composition of limestone and marl layers packed with tiny fossilised oysters known as “Exogyra virgula”. This “garden of stone” gives the wine the mineral signature that makes it unmistakable. The Chablis AOC appellation is the global benchmark for those seeking absolute elegance. It is not simply a matter of latitude, but of the grape variety’s ability to interpret cold climates and rocky soils. The name “Bienommée”, meaning “well-named”, is not a whim but a tribute to the historic reputation of these lands, capable of producing whites that shaped the history of French winemaking. Here, Chardonnay is not opulent or buttery, but presented in its noblest, most vertical and razor-sharp form. The grapes are destemmed with extreme care to ensure that only the purest and most aromatic part of the fruit enters the must. Fermentation takes place exclusively in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine then rests on its fine lees for at least six months. In the glass, Bienommée shines with a pale straw-yellow colour and platinum reflections. The nose opens with a precise spectrum of aromas: lemon, crisp green apple and that distinctive chalk-dust touch that is the hallmark of Chablis. On the palate, it is an explosion of energy. The entry is taut, almost electric, before unfolding into a savoury progression reminiscent of sea breeze. The finish is long, impeccably clean and leaves the palate eager for another sip. Delicious already today, this Chablis also has ageing potential of five to seven years. Over time, it will evolve towards notes of honey and flint, while always retaining its vibrant acidic backbone. This is a wine that does not fear time — instead, it uses it to refine its character.
Catherine and Louis Poitout, childhood friends born and raised among the vineyards of Chablis, in the northern heart of Burgundy. For years, they followed different paths, far from the vines, between cities and careers worlds apart. But Chablis, with its magnetic pull and that white soil made of prehistoric seashells, eventually called them back home. So, in 1994, their paths crossed again, transforming a friendship into a shared life and wine project. Today, Domaine L&C Poitout is a 26-hectare estate that perfectly represents the “new wave” of French viticulture: an approach that blends an almost sacred respect for tradition with a modern sensitivity towards sustainability. Chablis, for those unfamiliar with it, is a place where Chardonnay is not simply a grape variety, but the voice of an ancient soil: the Kimmeridgian. Thousands of years ago, this land was covered by the sea, and today the vine roots sink deep into limestone marls rich in marine fossils. It is precisely this underground “secret” that gives their wines that vibrant, almost saline minerality that makes them unmistakable. Catherine and Louis manage their vineyards with a philosophy they describe as “thoughtful and beneficial”. Unsurprisingly, the estate holds HVE 3 (Haute Valeur Environnementale) certification, the highest environmental certification in France. Here, every parcel is listened to and cared for like a living being: light ploughing is practised to allow the soil to breathe, while biodiversity is preserved to maintain the natural balance between flora and fauna. But there is one fascinating detail that makes Domaine Poitout a cult destination for wine enthusiasts: the production of wines from own-rooted vines (vignes francs de pied). These are extremely rare vines, not grafted onto American rootstocks, which survived or were replanted in defiance of phylloxera. Chardonnay as it was more than a century ago.
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