La Grande Châtelaine, meaning “the great chatelaine”, evokes nobility and grace, qualities that perfectly define this Chardonnay from Domaine Chantal Lescure. It comes from a tiny vineyard of just over one hectare, where the vines have surpassed forty years of age. An age that yields only a small quantity of grapes, yet grapes filled with an energy and complexity that younger vineyards can only dream of. We are in Nuits-Saint-Georges, the beating heart of the Côte d'Or, where the soil forms a mosaic of clay and limestone. Here the Lescure family has cultivated the land according to certified organic principles since 2006 – a decision made long before “organic” became fashionable. In this wine, Chardonnay expresses itself in pure form, revealing all of its golden richness and complexity. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates and pressed whole, without destemming, in order to preserve the freshness of the aromas. Fermentation takes place slowly in oak barrels, only 10% of which are new oak. The wine then rests for around 15 months in barriques, ageing on its lees without haste. The result is a structured white wine capable of evolving beautifully over time. On the nose it reveals ripe pear, followed by notes of beeswax and a touch of toasted hazelnut. On the palate the opening is enveloping and almost buttery, immediately balanced by a saline streak that refreshes the mouth. The finish is long, with harmonious returns of honey and candied citrus fruits. It has an ageing potential of between 5 and 10 years: over time, the fresher notes will give way to more complex hints of dried fruit and sweet spices.