Spect.
Suckl.
What: From alberello-trained vines
Why: For its exceptional finesse
Perfect with: Game, rich braised dishes or aged cheeses
Wine Spectator
James Suckling
What: From alberello-trained vines
Why: For its exceptional finesse
Perfect with: Game, rich braised dishes or aged cheeses
ITALY
COLLEMASSARI SPA - SOC. AGRICOLA - LOC. POGGI DEL SASSO SNC CINIGIANO (GR 58044)
A vineyard of rare beauty, where each individual vine grows in its own space, free from rows and arranged according to a perfect geometry that seems hand-drawn. To find it, we move to Castagneto Carducci, in the heart of Grattamacco, where the ancient alberello system is not just an aesthetic choice, but a tribute to the agricultural history of the Mediterranean. An estate, Grattamacco, whose roots date back to the 1970s. In fact, it was the second winery to be established in the area, when Bolgheri was still a territory yet to be discovered for red wines. Here, coastal breezes meet inland forests, creating a unique microclimate that protects the vines from excessive heat. We are in the realm of DOC Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, an appellation that has changed the destiny of Italian viticulture. L’Alberello, however, is an IGT, a fortunate blend of great international reds interpreted with a Tuscan style. Cabernet Franc dominates at 70%, delivering elegance and peppery notes, supported by 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, which adds structure and longevity. The grapes come from a parcel of just two hectares located at around 100 metres above sea level. Fermentation takes place in small open wooden vats, where manual punch-downs are carried out to extract the best from the skins. After racking, the wine rests for 18 months in French barriques. A slow ageing process that continues for another year in bottle before release. In the glass, it immediately impresses with a deep, impenetrable ruby colour. On the nose, it offers a sensory journey between ripe wild berries and refreshing balsamic hints of mint and liquorice. On the palate, it is dense, almost chewy, yet supported by vibrant freshness. The tannins are present but incredibly smooth, giving way to a spicy finish that seems never-ending. A red of great stature, capable of evolving magnificently over the next 15 to 20 years thanks to its solid acidic backbone.
The Grattamacco winery is located between Castagneto Carducci and Bolgheri, in an area of enchanting beauty with panoramic views over the Tuscan coast. Since 2002, it has been part of the ColleMassari Wine Estates group, owned by the Bertarelli family, although the estate dates back to 1977. The vineyards lie at an altitude of around 100–200 metres above sea level, in a protected position in the hills of Bolgheri. The area enjoys a dry climate with significant temperature variations, allowing the cultivation not only of French grape varieties, but also Sangiovese and Vermentino.
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