Let us imagine closing our eyes and finding ourselves in Aÿ in springtime. The air is fresh. The scent of white flowers and chalk beneath our feet. Now we open our eyes and place this bottle in the basket. When we uncork it, that is exactly the sensation we will experience. Collet’s Art Déco Brut is a cuvée that does not seek to impress through special effects, but rather to transport you — at least in spirit — to the place where it was born. Champagne is perhaps the most imitated appellation in the world. Yet no imitation can truly compete with the original. The secret lies in the chalk, the “craie” as it is called here, which retains water and releases it slowly, giving the wines that saline minerality found nowhere else. The blend is perfectly balanced: 40% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, 20% Meunier. The Chardonnay comes mainly from Vertus, bringing freshness and citrus notes. Pinot Noir arrives from historic crus such as Aÿ and Rilly-la-Montagne, adding richness and power. Meunier from Ville-Dommange completes the picture with roundness and softness. Three grape varieties with very precise roles, none overpowering the others. Long ageing in the cellar, with a dosage that is restrained but not too low. Enough to soften without masking. Bright lemon-yellow in colour, with fine and lively bubbles. On the nose, white flowers and tulips emerge first, followed by lime, apple, pear and pineapple. Then come hints of aniseed and lavender honey. On the palate it is creamy and enveloping, yet never heavy. The attack is driven by citrus fruit and lime. The mid-palate reveals ripe pineapple and crisp apple. The finish is long and savoury, with a smoky note that lingers on the palate long after the sip. Perfect with refined dishes such as pigeon in redcurrant sauce, a classic pairing in Champagne tradition. It also stands up beautifully to veal carpaccio with rocket. And for those who prefer simplicity: smoked salmon on rye bread — few ingredients, outstanding result.