What: 36 months of lees ageing
Why: For the unmistakable fruity character of this village
Perfect with: Fried fish, veal escalopes with mushrooms
James Suckling
Decanter
Jancis Robinson
What: 36 months of lees ageing
Why: For the unmistakable fruity character of this village
Perfect with: Fried fish, veal escalopes with mushrooms
France
Have you ever heard of the “Widows of Champagne”? Just like other celebrated maisons in the region, the history of Devaux was profoundly shaped by three extraordinary women who took charge of the company in the nineteenth century with remarkable foresight. Today, this maison operates in Bar-sur-Seine, in the heart of the Côte des Bar. Here, the landscape is dominated by rolling hills and lush woodland, creating a unique microclimate. The soils are rich in marl and limestone. This distinctive terroir gives the wine an unmistakable fruity roundness that clearly sets it apart from the rest of the region. In this case, Pinot Noir accounts for no less than 70% of the blend. The remaining 30% is Chardonnay. Only the juice from the very first pressing is used for this cuvée. Alcoholic fermentation takes place mainly in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks to preserve the varietal aromas. This is followed by complete malolactic fermentation to soften the pronounced acidity. The blend includes 20% reserve wines aged in large wooden vats. Finally, the wine rests on its lees in the bottle for a full 36 months before disgorgement. Bright golden yellow in colour, the nose reveals floral aromas of almond blossom alongside clear notes of stone fruit such as peach and apricot. On the palate, it is refined, intense and complex. The creamy bubbles caress the mouth and lead towards a long finish reminiscent of yellow plum. It works beautifully with classic fried fish or veal escalopes with porcini mushrooms.
Maison Devaux, founded in 1846 in the heart of the beautiful and untamed Côte des Bar, owes its success and international reputation to the determination, intelligence and character of no fewer than three consecutive widows, or “veuves”, who took over the reins of the house between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and guided it towards legendary status. Today, although its corporate structure has changed and it has become the flagship of a successful network of local winegrowers, the spirit of excellence and independence of those remarkable women remains embedded in the DNA of the maison and its wines. Geographically, we are in the south of the Champagne appellation, in the Aube department. This is an undulating landscape characterised by green hills and a slightly milder and sunnier climate than the Marne. But the real magic happens underground: the soils are composed of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, an ancient geological formation rich in marine fossils, exactly the same as the one that makes the celebrated white wines of Chablis so unique. On this exceptional stage, Pinot Noir is the leading grape variety. Devaux’s production philosophy rests on one fundamental pillar: time as an ingredient and surgical precision in the cellar. Selection is carried out strictly parcel by parcel, isolating the very best that each hillside has to offer. What truly makes the difference, however, is the Maison’s extraordinary patience: even the entry-level cuvées rest on their lees for a minimum of three years, twice as long as required by the strict Champagne regulations.
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