What: No fewer than five years of lees ageing
Why: For those who understand the value of time
Perfect with: Baked turbot fillet, Milanese risotto
Wine Spectator
James Suckling
Decanter
Jancis Robinson
Vinous
What: No fewer than five years of lees ageing
Why: For those who understand the value of time
Perfect with: Baked turbot fillet, Milanese risotto
FRANCE
Champagne Charles Westler - 21, boulevard de Beauséjour 75016 Paris, France
A wine that combines the precision of Champagne with the aromatic richness of fine ageing oak. Maison Devaux’s Cuvée D is born from this fascinating union. But let us proceed in order. We are in Bar-sur-Seine, in the vibrant heart of the Côte des Bar. This area is characterised by rolling hills and soils rich in limestone and Kimmeridgian marl. It is a special terroir where the history of winegrowing dates back to medieval times, thanks to the work of Cistercian monks. The unique microclimate encourages optimal ripening of the grapes, giving them a fruity roundness that is the true hallmark of the area. This blend is the result of perfect balance. Pinot Noir accounts for 55% and comes entirely from the Côte des Bar, providing structure and a solid body. The remaining 45% is Chardonnay harvested in the prestigious areas of the Côte des Blancs, Montgueux and the Côte des Bar itself. This grape brings remarkable elegance and sharp citrus freshness. The house selects only the heart of the cuvée, namely the very first pressing of the highest-quality must. Alcoholic fermentation takes place mainly in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. A valuable portion is instead vinified in oak to enrich the texture of the wine. Malolactic fermentation is only partially completed in order to preserve the original freshness. The final blend includes no less than 35% reserve wines aged in large oak vats. After the second fermentation in the bottle, the wine rests on its lees in the cellar for at least five long years. Following disgorgement, the Champagne then waits a further 6 to 12 months before release. The final dosage is around 8 grams per litre. Bright golden yellow in colour, enhanced by a delicate and decidedly persistent mousse, the initial aromatic impact is characterised by intense scents of white flowers and delicate spices. Delicious notes of toasted brioche and vanilla then emerge. On the palate, it stands out for its incredible freshness, with clear hints of mandarin and orange peel. The sip is creamy, intense and remarkably persistent. Try it with baked turbot fillet and potatoes, or with Milanese risotto with bone marrow, where the bubbles cleanse the palate perfectly.
Maison Devaux, founded in 1846 in the heart of the beautiful and untamed Côte des Bar, owes its success and international reputation to the determination, intelligence and character of no fewer than three consecutive widows, or “veuves”, who took over the reins of the house between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and guided it towards legendary status. Today, although its corporate structure has changed and it has become the flagship of a successful network of local winegrowers, the spirit of excellence and independence of those remarkable women remains embedded in the DNA of the maison and its wines. Geographically, we are in the south of the Champagne appellation, in the Aube department. This is an undulating landscape characterised by green hills and a slightly milder and sunnier climate than the Marne. But the real magic happens underground: the soils are composed of Kimmeridgian limestone and clay, an ancient geological formation rich in marine fossils, exactly the same as the one that makes the celebrated white wines of Chablis so unique. On this exceptional stage, Pinot Noir is the leading grape variety. Devaux’s production philosophy rests on one fundamental pillar: time as an ingredient and surgical precision in the cellar. Selection is carried out strictly parcel by parcel, isolating the very best that each hillside has to offer. What truly makes the difference, however, is the Maison’s extraordinary patience: even the entry-level cuvées rest on their lees for a minimum of three years, twice as long as required by the strict Champagne regulations.
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