There is a grape variety capable of dividing public opinion between those who love it madly and those who fear its exuberance. It is Sauvignon, which sings with an elegance and mineral precision on the hills of Zegla, in Cormons, that only the heart of Collio can offer. The Erzeti? family, the soul of the Branko winery, cares for its vineyards as if they were an extension of their own home. The uniqueness of this small patch of land lies in its subsoil, the famous “ponca”: an alternation of marl and sandstone stratified over millions of years. This rock forces the vines to struggle a little to find water, but in return gives the grapes a flavour that is almost like stardust. In this area, the breezes that descend from the Julian Pre-Alps meet the mild influence of the Adriatic Sea, creating a microclimate that is perfect for fixing the aromas in the skins. A single-varietal, 100% Sauvignon, Branko's wine is an exercise in balance between tradition and modernity. Both the “capovolto” system, typical of Friuli, and the French “Guyot” system are used in the vineyard. After careful vinification, 90% of the wine is aged in steel tanks to keep the crispness of the fruit and its citrus soul intact. The remaining 10%, on the other hand, rests in 400-litre tonneaux. This small percentage in large wood is the real “chef's touch”. In the glass, it has a beautiful bright straw yellow colour that immediately captures the light. The nose is overwhelming but refined: hints of exotic fruit, such as passion fruit, followed by notes of cedar, grapefruit and a bouquet of fresh herbs. On the palate, it is vibrant, almost electric, with a savouriness that invites you to take another sip. With bottle ageing, the varietal notes will become more complex and the minerality of the “ponca” will emerge even more clearly. It is a real winner at the table. Try it with raw fish, sautéed mussels or tagliolini with crab and vegetables.