There is a wine in Valle d'Aosta that does not follow trends, a red that we could define as “controversial” in the most fascinating sense of the term: it is Fumin. If you are looking for a mountain red that really has guts and a unique personality, get ready to fall in love. Ottin, in fact, with its Valle d'Aosta DOC Fumin, offers us a pure and straightforward version of this native grape variety. But let's proceed in order. The production area, the hamlet of Porossan Neyves, is the emblem of what we call heroic viticulture. We are on the sunniest slopes of the Dora Baltea, where the steep and rocky terrain requires entirely manual labour. The alpine climate, with its significant temperature variation between day and night, gives Fumin the acidic freshness that makes it so dynamic and long-lived. As always, the harvest is manual and takes place in October, when the grapes are fully ripe. The transformation is traditional and patient: it starts with spontaneous fermentation that lasts a full three weeks in contact with the skins, to extract all the colour and noble tannins of this grape variety. This is followed by 12 months of ageing in large 30-hectolitre barrels, to allow the wine to mature without being covered. This Fumin has an inviting appearance. In the glass, it has a beautiful intense and concentrated ruby red colour with vibrant garnet reflections. The nose is a dark and enveloping symphony: it starts with notes of violets and blackberries, then moves on to more austere hints of graphite, sherry tobacco and a hint of cocoa. The spicy aspect is rich, with warm hints of nutmeg and cloves. A full and complex bouquet. On the palate, however, it surprises with its lightness and dynamism, despite its concentration. Juicy and delicious, the texture is creamy, with tannins that are present but well integrated. Fumin is by nature a red wine suitable for long ageing. This Ottin label can evolve magnificently for 8-10 years, softening its innate rusticity and developing incredible complexity.