The Verdicchio di Matelica Vigneto Fogliano by Società Agricola Bisci is a wine that demands respect. A “white dressed as a red” that does not fear the passing of time and, in fact, finds its most authentic voice as it ages. We are in the Marche region, far from the sea. Matelica is a fortunate enclave set within a syncline, a north-to-south valley unique in its kind as it runs parallel to the Adriatic coast. This geographical formation prevents sea breezes from softening the climate, creating a distinctly continental environment. Here summers are scorching and winters harsh, with day-to-night temperature swings that would rival mountain regions. In this setting, the Bisci family has been cultivating vines since the 1970s, preserving a biodiversity that is now certified organic. The Vigneto Fogliano, in particular, is the estate’s cru, located between 300 and 350 metres above sea level, where clay and limestone soils give the wine a steel-like backbone. The vines are over forty years old and root in land that was once an ancient marine basin. After manual harvesting, the must ferments in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperature. The real peculiarity, however, lies in the ageing: the wine rests for at least 15–18 months in glass-lined concrete tanks on its fine lees, before completing its journey with extended bottle ageing. This time in concrete allows for natural micro-oxygenation, stabilising the wine without masking its aromas with oak notes. Bright straw yellow, the nose is an explosion of chlorophyll and white flowers, followed by notes of bitter almond and anise intertwined with a chalky minerality. On the palate it is firm, almost sharp in its freshness, but quickly reveals a powerful structure and a savouriness reminiscent of sea salt. The finish is very long, leaving a pleasant citrus trail. At the table it pairs beautifully with asparagus and saffron risotto or with salt cod in the Ancona style, with tomato and spices.