Parker
Suckl.
What: Pure Perricone
Why: For its great structure and tannins, which are present but smooth
Perfect with: Red meats, robust sauces and mature cheeses
Robert Parker
James Suckling
What: Pure Perricone
Why: For its great structure and tannins, which are present but smooth
Perfect with: Red meats, robust sauces and mature cheeses
Italy
Conte Tasca d'Almerita, Tenuta Regaleali, Sclafani Bagni (PA) Italia
Perricone, affectionately known as ‘Guarnaccio’ by Regaleali's winemakers, is a native grape variety of rare elegance, cultivated on the estate since 1959. Its roots lie in the historic San Lucio vineyard, a piece of land that has allowed this oenological treasure to be preserved and enhanced. We are in a hilly environment, about 480 metres above sea level, where the Sicilian sun warms the earth, while the cool nights, typical of this inland area, keep the grapes healthy and rich in aromas. The soil, a mix of fine clay and limestone, gives the wine an important structure and a mineral soul that makes it unique. The production of Guarnaccio begins with the manual harvest of the grapes, which are picked in September. In the cellar, they are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks for about 13 days, extracting the best aromas and colour from the skins. Then, once malolactic fermentation is complete, the wine is aged for 12 months in second and third passage French oak barriques, acquiring greater complexity without the wood taking over and masking the varietal character. In the glass, Perricone Guarnaccio has an intense, brilliant ruby red colour. On the nose, there are fruity hints of mulberry and red fruit jam. Then there are spicy notes of pepper and cloves, ending with an unexpected balsamic touch of eucalyptus. On the palate, it is a wine of great structure, with tannins that are present but smooth and a nice freshness that balances the warmth. The sip is enveloping, long and leaves a pleasant sensation of persistence. For a traditional pairing, this red goes well with a pasta dish with meat sauce, such as a robust ragù, or with roasts or grilled red meats. Excellent with flavourful cheeses.
Eight generations. Over 200 years of wine history in Sicily. What more could you want? Perhaps only ownership of one of the island's most famous estates, Regaleali, where many of the company's best-known wines come from. We are, of course, talking about Tasca d'Almerita, rightly considered one of the most interesting wineries in our country. The challenge of the 2000s for the last heirs of the dynasty is that of environmental sustainability on the company's vast estates. Estates that are located in practically every corner of Sicily. Alongside the historic Regaleali estate in Sclafani, Palermo, Tasca now also works vineyards in Salina, the land of Malvasia, on the island of Mothia, where Marsala was born and where small plots of Grillo grapes are still found today, in Camporeale and even on the northern slope of Mount Etna, where native vines dominate and are cultivated at high altitudes on fascinating terraced vineyards.
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