Spect.
Suckl.
What: Primitivo according to Gianfranco Fino
Why: For its imposing personality
Perfect with: Large roasts and important meat dishes, mature cheeses
Wine Spectator
James Suckling
What: Primitivo according to Gianfranco Fino
Why: For its imposing personality
Perfect with: Large roasts and important meat dishes, mature cheeses
Italy
Imbottigliato all'origine da Gianfranco Fino - Contrada Reni, 74024 Manduria TA
Forget – for a moment – the Primitivo you have drunk so far. And get ready to meet Es, a wine that is not simply a red from Puglia, but a true act of faith in the power and authenticity of a grape variety. Behind this enigmatic name, inspired by Freud's concept of instinct and passion, lies the philosophy of a man who, in the heart of Salento, decided not to compromise. It all begins in a unique land, where the breeze from the Ionian Sea mixes with the heat of the sun and where the vineyards, cultivated using the ancient alberello method, sink their roots into the “red earth” . The winegrower is Gianfranco Fino who, with his almost obsessive attention to detail, has managed to tame this natural generosity, opting for very low yields and rigorous selection in the vineyard. Primitivo Salento IGT, this red wine comes from historic vineyards, where the vines are over fifty years old. The grapes are harvested by hand and taken to the cellar for a long and patient process. Fermentation in steel and ageing for twelve months in new French oak barriques. A fundamental step that does not serve to mask the fruit, but to dress its exuberance, giving it a complexity and persistence that few wines in the world can boast. Intense and impenetrable ruby red in colour, almost ink-like, the nose offers a true sensory journey, starting with an explosion of dark, juicy fruits such as blackberry, cherry and blueberry, then veering towards warmer notes of sweet spices, cocoa, liquorice and a delicate hint of tobacco. An enveloping, almost balsamic aroma. It does not disappoint on the palate either. It is powerful yet incredibly elegant, with a dense but velvety tannic texture. The taste of ripe fruit returns in a warm and enveloping embrace that lingers, closing with a long, persistent and unforgettable finish. How to pair it? Due to its imposing personality, it needs equally bold dishes. A classic pairing is with roast lamb or braised beef. But don't be afraid to be daring. Strong-flavoured mature cheeses or even a piece of dark chocolate with a high cocoa content. The key word is “surprising”!
When we think of quality wine, we generally think of centuries-old traditions and wineries passed down from generation to generation. Sometimes, however, the most fascinating stories are those that arise from a clear choice. From a passion so strong that it drives a man to change his life to follow a dream. This is the case of Gianfranco Fino, a winegrower who, in the heart of Salento, has shown that only one ingredient is needed to produce great wines: a deep and honest connection with one's land. His adventure began in 2004, when Gianfranco and his wife, Simona, decided to buy a tiny, ancient Primitivo vineyard, cultivated using the traditional alberello method. It was not a simple investment, but an act of faith in the potential of a territory and a grape variety that, until then, had not expressed their full value. Gianfranco Fino describes himself as a “vineyard craftsman”, and this expression encapsulates his entire philosophy. His approach to viticulture is almost obsessive, where every intervention is measured and every choice is aimed at achieving the highest quality. Yields are very low because the goal is not quantity, but concentration, intensity and the soul of the wine. Today, the winery has evolved, culminating in 2021 with the inauguration of the new underground cellar, a true architectural gem with star-shaped vaults, completely integrated into the landscape.
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