What: Made exclusively from Cortese grapes
Why: The highest expression of the Bosio terroir
Perfect with: Fried seafood, traditional Ligurian pasta dishes and Asian cuisine
What: Made exclusively from Cortese grapes
Why: The highest expression of the Bosio terroir
Perfect with: Fried seafood, traditional Ligurian pasta dishes and Asian cuisine
Italy
Azienda Agricola Ghio Roberto, Via Circonvallazione, 3, 15060 Bosio AL
Gavi DOCG Terre Bianche by Roberto Ghio is born in Bosio, the highest municipality of the entire Gavi denomination and geographically the closest point in Piedmont to the Ligurian Sea. This position is far from insignificant: here Roberto Ghio’s vineyards breathe the “Marino”, a wind rising through the valleys carrying the salinity of the sea air and ensuring strong temperature variations that lock aromas into the grapes. The soil is a mosaic of limestone marl and clay that locals call “Terre Bianche”, capable of giving the wines an impressively mineral backbone. Gavi DOCG is the stronghold of Piedmontese white wines in a region dominated by great reds. This wine finds one of its most authentic expressions thanks to organic farming. The undisputed protagonist is Cortese, a grape variety that, when cultivated with care, delivers a perfect balance between vibrant acidity and a delicate yet persistent structure. Here Cortese reveals its most aristocratic side, avoiding excessive softness in favour of a verticality that cleanses the palate. Harvest begins in mid-September and is carried out strictly by hand, selecting only the best bunches directly in the vineyard. In the cellar, everything is handled with extreme precision: fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks in order to preserve the fruit’s primary aromas. After resting, the wine ages in bottle for at least six months, allowing the acidic component to integrate with the body of the wine, creating a white that does not rush to be drunk but arrives in the glass with enviable balance and stability. Bright straw yellow with greenish reflections that reveal its youth. On the nose, clear notes of green apple, pear and grapefruit emerge alongside hints of white flowers. On the palate it enters with precision and sharpness. Salinity is the true protagonist, almost recalling the sea breeze mentioned earlier, with a clean finish leaving behind a pleasant memory of bitter almond. A must-try with mixed fried seafood. Its acidity cuts through the richness of fried food like a sharp knife.
There are corners of Italy where geography seems to delight in blurring borders, creating territories unlike anywhere else. One of these places is Bosio, a small municipality nestled in the Alto Monferrato, where the Ghio family has cultivated vines since as far back as 1881. Looking at a map, you quickly realise that this is the highest point of both the Gavi and Ovada areas and, above all, the stretch of Piedmont closest to the Ligurian Sea. Today the estate is led by Roberto Ghio, who carries forward a family tradition spanning seven generations with a very clear vision: producing wines far removed from fleeting fashions and standardised tastes. Roberto’s philosophy is that of a meticulous craftsman. Organic farming rules the vineyard with a “zero tolerance” policy towards herbicides, while in the cellar human intervention is reduced to the bare minimum, with extremely limited use of sulphur dioxide in order to preserve the purity and integrity of the fruit. The estate’s 24 hectares of vineyards stretch across soils where three prestigious denominations overlap: Gavi, Ovada and Alta Langa. The southernmost vineyards, located at around 800 metres above sea level, are among the highest in all southern Piedmont, a condition that gives the wines vibrant freshness and an almost saline minerality recalling the nearby sea. While Cortese is the undisputed star in the production of elegant and mineral Gavi wines, the true curiosity of this winery lies in its determination to rescue ancient and nearly forgotten grape varieties from oblivion. A fascinating example is Caricalasino, a local grape proudly vinified by Ghio, alongside Nibiö, an ancient red-stemmed Dolcetto biotype that gives rise to reds of character and impressive longevity.
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