What: 100% Cortese
Why: For its mineral freshness
Perfect with: Fish dishes, Ligurian savoury pies and risottos
What: 100% Cortese
Why: For its mineral freshness
Perfect with: Fish dishes, Ligurian savoury pies and risottos
Italy
Azienda Agricola Ghio Roberto, Via Circonvallazione, 3, 15060 Bosio AL
There is a corner of Piedmont where the air already carries the scent of salt. It is no mirage, but the magic of the village of Bosio, the southernmost point of the province of Alessandria, so close to the sea that, on clear days, winegrowers swear they can glimpse its reflection from the highest vineyard peaks. In this borderland, between the ridges of the Ligurian Apennines and the gentle hills of Monferrato, Roberto Ghio cultivates his interpretation of Gavi DOCG. Bosio is the highest point of the appellation, where the vines struggle the most yet produce grapes of incomparable freshness. Here the soil is rich in clay and calcareous marl, an ancient terroir proudly known by locals as “Terre Bianche”. In the past, these lands were crossed by salt merchants travelling inland from the coast. Today, it seems as though that salt has remained trapped within the roots of the vines, giving the wine a minerality that has become its unmistakable signature. The DOCG Gavi del Comune di Bosio is a prestigious subzone that highlights precisely this inseparable bond with the territory. The grape variety used is 100% Cortese. A historic, noble and delicate grape that finds its ideal habitat in these soils. Roberto Ghio cultivates it according to the principles of organic farming, without forcing nature, allowing the vine to express its true character. Harvest begins in mid-September, with grapes picked strictly by hand to avoid any premature oxidation. In the cellar, fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, a precise technical choice aimed at preserving the varietal aromas and the crispness of the fruit. After vinification, the wine undergoes at least six months of bottle ageing, a valuable period that allows its elements to harmonise and find perfect balance. In the glass it shows a clear straw yellow colour with bright reflections. On the nose it does not shout, but gently whispers notes of white flowers, citron peel and a distinctive hint of green almond. On the palate the entry is fresh, almost razor-sharp, immediately followed by a deep savoury character that extends the sip into a clean and refreshing finish. It is a wine that naturally calls for another sip without ever becoming tiring. At the table it proves versatile and generous. Perfect with warm focaccia di Recco, where its acidity beautifully balances the richness of the cheese, or with a wild asparagus risotto.
There are corners of Italy where geography seems to delight in blurring borders, creating unique territories unlike anywhere else. One of these places is Bosio, a small village nestled in the Alto Monferrato, where the Ghio family has been cultivating vines since as far back as 1881. A glance at the map reveals that we are in the highest part of both the Gavi and Ovada areas, but above all in the stretch of Piedmont closest to the Ligurian Sea. Today the winery is led by Roberto Ghio, who carries forward a family tradition spanning seven generations with a very clear vision: to produce wines far removed from fleeting trends and standardised tastes. Roberto’s philosophy is that of a meticulous craftsman. In the vineyard, organic farming is practised with a strict “zero tolerance” policy towards herbicides, while in the cellar human intervention is reduced to the bare minimum, with extremely limited use of sulphur dioxide in order to preserve the purity, healthiness and authenticity of the fruit. The estate’s 24 hectares of vineyards extend across soils where three prestigious appellations overlap: Gavi, Ovada and Alta Langa. The southernmost vineyards, located at around 800 metres above sea level, are among the highest in all southern Piedmont, a condition that gives the wines vibrant freshness and an almost saline savouriness, echoing the nearby sea. While Cortese is undoubtedly the star grape for producing elegant and mineral-driven Gavi wines, the real curiosity of this winery lies in its determination to rescue ancient and almost forgotten grape varieties from oblivion. A fascinating example is Caricalasino, a local grape that Ghio vinifies with pride, alongside Nibiö, an ancient Dolcetto biotype with a red stalk that produces reds of great character and remarkable longevity.
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