We are in Cori, in the province of Latina. Here, the roots of the vines sink deep into soil that tells the story of turbulent geological eras. This area rests on volcanic and clayey soil that gives the wines an almost electric flavour. The bond between man and soil here is visceral, and the cooperative management of Cincinnato has made it possible to preserve an agricultural landscape that seems to have stopped in time, keeping the biodiversity of the Lepini hills intact. The star of this bottle is Malvasia del Lazio, known as “puntinata” because of the small dark dots that appear on the skin when ripe. Unlike its more aromatic and sometimes cloying cousins, Puntinata stands out for its superior finesse and acidic backbone, which makes it incredibly modern. It is a difficult grape to tame in the vineyard but, if well managed, it rewards with an aromatic complexity that is unmatched in central Italy. The vineyards managed by Cincinnato enjoy a privileged exposure that allows for slow and uniform ripening. The must ferments in white at a controlled temperature for eight days. The wine then rests in steel tanks for six months and undergoes further ageing in the bottle for another six months. This choice not to use wood is fundamental. It serves to keep the palate clean, vibrant and faithful to the volcanic character of the Lazio soil. In the glass, it is a bright straw yellow with golden reflections that seem to capture the sunlight. The impact on the nose is elegant and unobtrusive. Hints of crisp apple and mandarin zest immediately emerge, followed by a note of yellow-fleshed fruit such as nectarine. If you pay attention, fresh sage and that hint of bitter almond that is the trademark of the grape variety appear on the finish. On the palate, it is a wine that never stands still. It is dry, structured and has a liveliness that immediately invites you to take a second sip. The volcanic minerality is evident and leaves the palate fresh and dry. It is unrivalled at the table: fried fish and traditional Roman first courses that do not include tomato, such as a light gricia. Finally, it is excellent with fresh vegetables: a salad of raw artichokes and pecorino cheese shavings finds its ideal companion in this white wine.