Forget about rushing. High above, where the air grows thinner and the vineyards challenge the clouds, time follows completely different rules and passes slowly. This traditional-method sparkling wine is born here, and its name is a true declaration of origin, combined with a touch of mountain pride. The number 600 refers to the altitude at which the grapes are grown. We are in Cortaccia, but not among the warm hills of the valley floor. You have to climb higher, up steep slopes where the land changes character. In this corner of Alto Adige, the soils are rich in limestone and minerals. The area’s real trump card is the extraordinary temperature difference between day and night. The mountain vines work hard, protected by imposing rock faces and caressed by cool Alpine breezes that keep the grapes healthy and preserve their sharp acidity. A Blanc de Blancs made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes, here this noble French variety sets aside its typically exotic opulence and takes on a sharper, more precise character. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand and immediately undergo gentle pressing in the winery. Fermentation of the base wine takes place partly in stainless-steel tanks and partly in wood, a strategic choice designed to increase the complexity of the cuvée. This is followed by a second fermentation in the bottle, in accordance with the traditional method. The wine then spends an exceptionally long time ageing on its lees in the darkness of the historic cellars. No liqueur is added at disgorgement, leaving the wine at zero dosage. A Pas Dosé, therefore, that captures the terroir without filters. It has a bright straw-yellow colour, crossed by an exceptionally dense, fine and persistent stream of bubbles. The first impression on the nose is direct and captivating. Clear aromas of fresh citrus fruit, green apple, white peach and mountain flowers emerge. Only afterwards do nuances of bread crust, toasted almond and a distinct flinty note appear. On the palate, the attack is taut, vertical and savoury. Its vibrant freshness goes hand in hand with the complexity developed during ageing. The finish is exceptionally long, mineral and remarkably clean. It is perfect with raw seafood or a platter of fresh oysters, where the wine’s savoury character enhances their briny flavour. For those looking for a pairing from the land, it is also perfect with porcini mushroom risotto, as its freshness cleanses the palate of the dish’s creaminess.