What: From high-altitude vineyards
Why: For its incredible ageing potential
Perfect with: Braised meat, mature cheeses or a moment of pure meditation
What: From high-altitude vineyards
Why: For its incredible ageing potential
Perfect with: Braised meat, mature cheeses or a moment of pure meditation
Italy
Imbottigliato all'origine dalla Azienda Agricola Stefano Accordini, Località Camparol 10, Fumane (VR)
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG is not just a wine. It is a ‘method’. Its uniqueness is linked to the drying of the grapes after harvesting. They are left to dry for weeks on racks or trellises inside fruit cellars, losing water and concentrating sugars, acidity and, above all, aromas. The Accordini family cultivates its 25 hectares of vineyards in the Fumane area, at an altitude of about 550 metres, the highest part of the Valpolicella Classica. This “mountain” location is fundamental, because the cooler, windier climate, combined with the calcareous soils, gives the grapes a health and acidity that are essential for the long and delicate drying process. The blend is obviously faithful to the regulations: Corvina Veronese and Rondinella dominate, with percentages of other permitted grape varieties. After harvesting by hand, the best grapes are selected and sent for drying. This period, which lasts up to three or four months, is the heart of production. Only after this long wait is the concentrated must slowly fermented. The wine then matures in oak barrels, refining the tannins and adding layers of complexity, preparing the palate for a memorable experience. In the glass, it has an interesting deep, impenetrable garnet red colour. The nose is intense, with a riot of fruit preserved in alcohol, morello cherry, prune and hints of sweet spices such as vanilla and cocoa, with a balsamic note that adds freshness. On the palate, it is powerful and warm, but not heavy. Enveloping and smooth, it has an extraordinary balance between alcohol, silky tannins and a pleasant acidity. The latter is a legacy of the high-altitude vineyards, which prevents the wine from becoming cloying. The finish is very long, with echoes of fruit and tobacco that linger on the palate. It is an excellent wine for meditation, but also makes a good impression at the table. Already good today, Amarone is a wine designed for the long haul. Its ageing potential is remarkable: up to 10 or 15 years.
There is a winery in Valpolicella that can be described as the highest in the Classic zone. It is Stefano Accordini, located in Cavalo di Fumane, at an altitude of 550 metres. However, this is not just a geographical curiosity; it is the real cornerstone of their philosophy. The winery's origins date back to the early 20th century, when Gaetano Accordini began producing wine. The real leap forward, however, came with the following generations, who decided to focus entirely on the hilly and mountainous areas. Today, the winery owns about 25 hectares of vineyards in an area where the soil is calcareous and stony, combined with a unique microclimate. Here, we can talk about heroic viticulture, with terraced land thanks to typical dry stone walls called “marogne”. . The altitude gives the grapes a considerable temperature range, which translates into slower and more gradual ripening that preserves the acidity and, above all, the more delicate and complex aromas of native grapes such as Corvina and Rondinella. Today, the winery is run by a new generation, represented by Giacomo, Paolo and Marco Accordini, who are continuing Stefano's work with a strong focus on innovation. Their philosophy is based on two pillars: excellence in the upper Valpolicella and a concrete commitment to eco-sustainability. The entire company operates organically, with the aim of eliminating contamination, thanks in part to its isolated location and the new winery, inaugurated in 2011, designed to minimise environmental impact.
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