Have you ever wondered why bees in Irpinia gather above certain rows of vines more than anywhere else? The secret lies in Fiano, formerly known as Apianum because of its sweetness that drives the most gluttonous insects crazy. Among the hills of San Potito Ultra, at an altitude of about 500 metres, Vinosia cultivates its Le Grade cru on clayey soils dotted with volcanic residues inherited from the nearby Apennine mountains. The temperature range between breezy days and cool nights sculpts vibrant acids and crisp aromas, while the tufaceous substrate gives it that unmistakable savoury vein that makes people talk about mountain white wine. A local anecdote tells that, after the 1980 earthquake, the winemakers replanted Fiano as a symbol of rebirth: many of the best vines come from those cuttings tempered by the tremors. Le Grade is pure Fiano. The compact berries give body, while the richness of the fruit provides an aromatic bouquet that stands the test of time. The winery is run with a light touch: manual harvesting in mid-October, soft pressing of whole bunches, cold clarification by static decantation. Fermentation proceeds with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature, then the wine rests for three months in steel on its fine lees before a brief ageing in glass. The result is “clean” and contemporary, without distorting the soul of the wine. In the glass, it shines with an intense straw yellow colour. The nose offers a range of aromas ranging from Williams pear to candied apricot, passing through lemongrass and fading into toasted almond and acacia honey. As the minutes pass, contact with oxygen brings out hints of wild flowers, basil and a touch of smoke. The palate is enveloping but driven by a lovely citrus freshness. Thanks to its acidic backbone and balanced alcohol content, Le Grade is at its best between 2 and 8 years of age, when the fruity notes evolve towards honey, chamomile and slight hydrocarbons. Amazing with lime-marinated yellowtail tartare, surprising with smoked scamorza cheese and grilled courgettes.