A wine born from an ancient sea. But not by the coast. We are among the hills on the left bank of the Tanaro River, in the Roero area. Here the soil hides a fascinating geological secret. Millions of years ago these lands were submerged beneath the ancient Padano Gulf. Even today, walking through the vineyards of Canale, it is possible to tread on fine sandy soils that still preserve tiny fragments of prehistoric shells. It is here that Filippo Gallino winery produces Roero DOCG Licin, a Nebbiolo that makes finesse its defining trait. The name Licin is an affectionate tribute to Felice Gallino, Filippo’s grandfather, born in 1904. In Langhe and Roero, nicknames are taken seriously and define a family’s identity for generations. Nebbiolo is a demanding grape variety, the first to bud and the last to be harvested, often when the first autumn mists wrap around the vineyards. In this specific cru, the grapes are selected with meticulous care to ensure that only the very best reaches the cellar. After destemming and crushing, the must macerates on the skins for around 7 to 10 days. During this period, continuous manual pump-overs are carried out. It is a patient process designed to extract colour and tannins without excessive harshness. After vinification in stainless steel, the wine rests for 12 months in 25-hectolitre oak casks, an essential step in softening the character of the grape. In the glass it shows a bright ruby red colour with the typical garnet reflections that hint at maturity. On the nose, small red berries and raspberry emerge first, followed by floral notes of violet and rose petals. There are also evolved hints of leather, liquorice and intriguing spice notes of cardamom and cloves. On the palate it is full and enveloping, with a long-lasting finish where blackberry and wild strawberry return. A wine with excellent ageing potential, Licin evolves beautifully over the years without losing freshness. As time passes in bottle, the fruity notes gradually give way to increasingly complex and fascinating tertiary aromas. This is a bottle that does not fear the cellar – on the contrary, it knows how to reward those patient enough to wait for it.