A single taste is enough – in fact, simply bringing the glass to your nose is enough – to transport you straight to the top of a mountain, surrounded by crisp air and the scent of rocks. We are talking about Cantina Kurtatsch’s Alto Adige DOC Sauvignon Penon-Kofl, a refreshing wine that is anything but ordinary. We are in Cortaccia, in the southern part of Alto Adige. This wine is born in an extreme pocket of land, where sheer rock faces protect the vines and reflect dazzling light. The name Penon-Kofl recalls both the mountain hamlet and the rock – “Kofl” in the local dialect – into which the vines sink their roots. For centuries, Swiss and Tyrolean farmers have worked the steepest terraces in this area, painstakingly carved out of the mountainside. The soil here is a mosaic of limestone and clay, swept by afternoon winds descending from the Alpine peaks. These wide differences between day and night temperatures allow the grapes to develop extraordinary aromatic complexity and sharp acidity. Cantina Kurtatsch cultivates these vineyards at altitudes between 500 and 700 metres, close to the upper limit for growing Sauvignon. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand, selecting only perfectly ripe bunches. In the winery, the focus is firmly on expressing the terroir. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large French oak casks, followed by around 12 months of ageing on the lees. This period in large oak is the true secret: it brings roundness and structure without compromising the aromatic purity of the fruit in the slightest. Bright straw yellow in colour, with brilliant greenish highlights, the nose is striking and layered. Rather than the usual aggressive tomato-leaf character, it reveals a refined bouquet of elderflower, white peach, sage and a distinct mineral streak reminiscent of flint. On the palate, the opening is focused and vertical, with juicy freshness that quite literally makes the mouth water. The wine is full, almost tactile, and stretches into a savoury, clean and remarkably persistent finish. For a traditional local pairing, try it with cheese dumplings, where the wine’s acidity cuts through the richness of the dish. It also works beautifully with fish dishes such as classic salt-baked sea bass or with white asparagus.