What: Single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva
Why: The excellence of Alpine viticulture
Perfect with: Rich game dishes, red meats
Gambero Rosso
Robert Parker
What: Single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva
Why: The excellence of Alpine viticulture
Perfect with: Rich game dishes, red meats
Italy
Cantina Cortaccia, Strada del vino 23, 39040 Cortaccia (BZ)
Imagine a sheer rock face blazing beneath the afternoon sun, storing heat to release during the night. This is the natural setting in which Freienfeld is born, a red wine that completely redefines the identity of great international grape varieties in an Alpine environment. But let us start from the beginning. We are in Cortaccia, in the Bassa Atesina area, where viticulture defies gravity on extraordinarily steep slopes. Cantina Kurtatsch cultivates its vineyards here on soils rich in clay and limestone pebbles. The name Freienfeld recalls a historic noble residence in the village. It tells the story of the deep bond between the farming community and a unique microclimate. The vineyards benefit from the Ora del Garda. This warm afternoon wind rises from the lake and keeps the grapes in perfect health. It also creates the ideal difference between day and night temperatures, allowing intense aromas to develop while preserving freshness. Made exclusively from Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine demonstrates the variety’s extraordinary ability to absorb the soil’s mineral complexity. The Cabernet fully expresses its natural power, balanced by an unexpected Alpine elegance and an unmistakable backbone of acidity. The grapes come exclusively from the Freienfeld cru vineyard, located in one of the warmest and most suitable subzones. Harvesting is carried out by hand, selecting only bunches that have reached perfect phenolic ripeness. In the winery, fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature. Long maceration on the skins allows the winemakers to extract colour and a dense tannic structure. The wine then ages in French oak barriques for around 18 months and completes its development with a slow period of bottle ageing before release. Deep, almost impenetrable ruby red in colour, with garnet highlights, the nose reveals notes of dark fruit, particularly blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry. These are followed by hints of graphite, black pepper, tobacco and cocoa, enhanced by delicate balsamic nuances. On the palate, it is powerful yet disarmingly refined. The tannins are dense and silky, beautifully integrated into a fresh, mineral structure. The finish continues to evolve, exceptionally long, spicy and toasted. It is the ideal companion for rich, flavoursome dishes. For a traditional local pairing, try it with saddle of venison and juniper, although it also works beautifully with fillet of beef.
In the heart of Alto Adige, where Alpine contrasts meet the mildness of the Mediterranean climate, stands Cantina Kurtatsch. This historic cooperative brings together the voices, hard work and passion of no fewer than 190 winegrowing families. Each family cultivates small plots of land as though they were their own gardens, passing down a deep-rooted connection with the land from one generation to the next. The winery’s production philosophy is based on a concept that is as simple as it is rigorous: the perfect wine can only be born in the right place. For Kurtatsch, this is not a slogan but a genuine daily mission guided by the principle of zoning. In an area characterised by remarkable differences in altitude, each individual grape variety is planted exclusively where it can find its ideal habitat. Within just a few kilometres, the landscape changes from sun-drenched vineyards on the valley floor to the most extreme rows of vines, climbing vertiginously steep slopes to altitudes of up to 900 metres. Conducting this impressive wine orchestra is a team of passionate young professionals who combine ancient craftsmanship with a modern, dynamic vision. One of the company’s most distinctive choices is its tangible and ongoing commitment to sustainability and the protection of biodiversity in the vineyard. Work among the vines is carried out almost entirely by hand, partly because of the steep terrain but also as a deliberate choice to guarantee the complete integrity of every single bunch before it reaches the winery. Here, the winemaking style aims for maximum purity and precision, protecting the grapes’ primary aromatic character and ensuring that neither wood nor winemaking techniques ever overpower the original soul of the variety and its terroir.
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