What: 50% reserve wines
Why: For those seeking the vertical freshness of Chardonnay
Perfect with: Scallop carpaccio
What: 50% reserve wines
Why: For those seeking the vertical freshness of Chardonnay
Perfect with: Scallop carpaccio
France
Champagne Brisson Lahaye 18 Rue Bernard, 51150 Tours-sur-Marne, Francia
Champagne La Sentimentale, Blanc de Blancs, 1er Cru Brut by Brisson Lahaye is born from the combination of artisan passion and a contemporary, direct winemaking vision. The estate is based in Tours-sur-Marne, a charming village strategically positioned at the crossroads of the region’s greatest terroirs. Just four hectares of vineyards, divided among areas of exceptional quality. These include the Premier Cru villages of Billy-le-Grand and Vaudemange, located on the Montagne de Reims but linked to the same chalky geological fault as the celebrated Côte des Blancs. This geographical peculiarity presents a considerable logistical challenge during harvest. At the same time, however, it offers the winegrowers an inexhaustible aromatic palette from which to create cuvées with a strong, expressive and at times unpredictable personality. In this case, Chardonnay is the undisputed protagonist, used on its own and grown on south-east-facing hillsides where conditions are ideal for developing a unique combination of citrus freshness and floral elegance. Vinification takes place entirely in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks to preserve the grape’s natural verticality. The true secret of the cuvée, however, lies in the blend. The winegrowers combine 50% wines from the current vintage with a generous 50% of precious reserve wines from previous harvests. After the second fermentation in the bottle, the bottles rest on their lees for two years in the cool galleries of the estate. The process concludes with disgorgement and a targeted Brut dosage of 6 grams per litre, ideal for balancing the vibrant natural acidity. Pale yellow in colour with delicate golden highlights and a fine stream of bubbles, the nose reveals a fresh, refined and distinctly floral profile, where notes of white flowers blend with subtle hints of honey. On the palate, the entry is direct yet enveloping. The sip perfectly combines pronounced finesse with an appealing fruity richness. Persistence is excellent, developing into soft vanilla nuances on the finish that invite a second glass. Try it with scallop carpaccio with citrus fruit or fried fish. Pure pleasure.
In the world of Champagne, where the great maisons often dominate the international stage, there is a parallel universe built on craftsmanship and a deep-rooted bond with the land. It is the world of the Récoltants-Manipulants, independent winegrowers who do not simply sell their grapes but choose to oversee every single stage of production, from pruning the vines to the final touch of disgorgement. And this is precisely where the remarkable Champagne Brisson-Lahaye belongs. The story of this estate is, first and foremost, the story of a transformation driven by passion. It all began in Tours-sur-Marne, one of the very few villages historically classified as Grand Cru. Here, the Brisson family originally ran a traditional farm devoted to agriculture and livestock breeding. The turning point came in 1981 with the marriage of Eliane Brisson and Joël Lahaye, the latter the son of winegrowers. Combining their strengths and visions, the couple decided in the 1990s to place all their faith in the vine, expanding their vineyard holdings. In 1994, they took the decisive step: they left the local cooperative to become independent. Today, the baton has passed to their daughter Laure, who, after rigorous studies in viticulture and oenology, runs the estate together with her partner Matthieu Foissy, representing the third generation of a family of independent winegrowers. Despite its outstanding reputation, Brisson-Lahaye retains the scale and spirit of a small artisan estate, with just 4 hectares of vineyards. Yet it is precisely this small size that represents its greatest strength. The vineyard philosophy is guided by a profound respect for biodiversity and natural balance, with the aim of allowing the terroir to express itself as purely and transparently as possible.
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