Spect.
Parker
Suckl.
Vinous
What: From the Montagne de Reims
Why: For its incredible aromatic persistence
Perfect with: Raw fish, oysters or soft cheeses
Wine Spectator
Robert Parker
James Suckling
Vinous
What: From the Montagne de Reims
Why: For its incredible aromatic persistence
Perfect with: Raw fish, oysters or soft cheeses
France
Bérèche et Fils, Route de Louvois Le Craon de Ludes, 51500 Ludes, Francia
Bérêche et Fils' Champagne Brut Réserve is a must-try, especially if you are a fan of small producers and sparkling wines with great character. But let's proceed in order. We are in Ludes, in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, an area of Champagne famous for its chalky soils and cool climate, perfect for enhancing the elegance of Pinot Noir and the minerality of Chardonnay. The chalky soil, in particular, is the real star of this wine: it acts like a sponge, absorbing water and releasing it slowly, nourishing the vines even in the driest periods. This unique terroir, together with a touch of Pinot Meunier, offers a wine with a complexity and savouriness that is difficult to find elsewhere. Furthermore, Bérêche et Fils is one of the few companies in Ludes to directly manage every stage of production, with an almost “artisan” approach. The choice not to use herbicides or systemic treatments in the vineyard is an act of respect for the land. After all, their philosophy is simple: let nature take its course, intervening as little as possible. This Champagne Brut Réserve is a masterpiece of balance. In fact, a portion of reserve wines from previous vintages is added to the base blend, adding depth, complexity and incredible aromatic persistence. The result is a sparkling wine that is not only creamy, but also incredibly rich and savoury. Thanks to its structure and acidity, this Champagne is perfect for accompanying an entire meal. Excellent with simple oysters, it pairs well with raw fish or vegetable tempura.
The Champagne region is famous throughout the world for its sparkling wines, but it also hides stories of unique people and territories. Stories such as that of the Bérêche family, who have been cultivating vines with passion for generations. Theirs is a story of tradition, innovation and deep respect for the land. The history of the Bérêche et Fils maison began in 1847 in Ludes, in the heart of the Montagne de Reims, one of the most renowned areas in the region. Today, the company is led by Raphaël Bérêche, a vigneron who has taken the family legacy and made it his own, bringing a breath of fresh air. Far from stereotypes and labels, Raphaël is a point of reference for the new generation of Champagne producers. He combines knowledge of the techniques of the past with a contemporary, attentive and innovative vision. His approach is clear and direct: wine is made in the vineyard and refined in the cellar. For this reason, fermentation occurs spontaneously, giving the wines a unique character. Ageing, on the other hand, takes place in oak barrels of different origins and capacities. This choice allows Raphaël to “chisel” each wine, like a tailor sewing a bespoke suit. Finally, a distinctive detail that few can afford today is the use of corks for the second fermentation in the bottle. This technique, which has almost disappeared, allows the cuvées to mature in “controlled oxidation”, giving the wine exceptional complexity and depth.
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