What: Pure Nerello Mascalese
Why: For its fine tannins and lovely savoury kick
Perfect with: Sliced tuna, fennel sausage and grilled porcini mushrooms
What: Pure Nerello Mascalese
Why: For its fine tannins and lovely savoury kick
Perfect with: Sliced tuna, fennel sausage and grilled porcini mushrooms
Italy
Aziende Agricole PLANETA S.S. Contrada Dispensa - 92013 Menfi (AG) Sicilia – Italia
The ‘crunch’ of lava underfoot is the sound that greets visitors climbing up to Sciaranuova, on the northern slope of Mount Etna. Here, Planeta, with its Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese, transforms a thousand-year-old lava flow into a red wine with mineral zest and volcanic charm. The vineyard rests on black sands created by the longest eruption ever recorded, which lasted ten years between 1614 and 1624. Here, at over 800 metres above sea level, the temperature difference between bright days and crisp nights “chisels” the grapes. All around, old stone “nevère” (snow pits) recall when the snow from Etna cooled the markets of Catania. The air smells of scrubland and pine resin, a habitat that convinced Planeta to take a chance on a hardy grape variety such as Nerello Mascalese, capable of expressing the volcano with the precision of a seismograph. The grapes are harvested by hand in October, when slow ripening fixes the colour, aromas and that subtle tannic texture that sets the standard. Once in the winery, the grapes are placed in a cell at 10°C, then fermented at a controlled temperature in steel. The cap remains submerged for up to 35 days with manual punching down. After vertical pressing and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, the wine rests for 12 months in oak barrels of various sizes: enough to smooth the tannins, but not so much as to mask the voice of the terroir. In the glass, it boasts a brilliant ruby colour, with incense, hibiscus, wild fennel and flint notes emerging on the nose. Red fruit, raspberry and currant come through on the second nose, enhanced by a hint of beeswax. On the palate, it is lively, with a soft entry and a juicy heart of pomegranate and blood orange. The fine tannins linger and open up to a salty-bloody finish that invites you to take another sip. Already enjoyable today, thanks to its agile structure and lively acidity, this wine will evolve over 8-12 years. With time, nuances of blond tobacco, liquorice root and graphite will emerge, without losing its freshness.
When it comes to contemporary Sicilian wine, Planeta is one of the first names that comes to mind. The family has been cultivating vineyards for seventeen generations, but the real leap in quality came in the 1990s, when cousins Francesca and Alessio Planeta transformed the family farm into a wine-making project spread across the island. Today, Francesca is president, while Alessio, the winemaker, coordinates a production of nearly 2.4 million bottles without compromising on a craft approach to detail. The philosophy is as simple as it is ambitious: to tell the story of Sicily as a whole, highlighting the differences in soil, climate and culture of each area. This is why Planeta does not have a single winery, but five estates – Menfi, Vittoria, Noto, Etna and Capo Milazzo – designed as stops on an ideal journey between coastlines, plateaus and volcanoes. Each site is a bastion of biodiversity and a micro-winemaking laboratory, because “every soil deserves its own voice”. Respect for the environment is the other pillar. From 2022, the entire range will be certified organic. In addition, Planeta adheres to the SOStain protocol, the first sustainability standard designed for Sicilian viticulture. The “Planeta Terra” project goes even further: lighter bottles produced 100% on the island, energy from renewable sources, reforestation of Mediterranean scrub and permanent vegetation cover between the rows. A concrete commitment that transforms sustainability from a slogan into everyday practice.
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