What: Burgundian finesse with a Mediterranean soul
Why: For good ageing
Perfect with: Roast quail, pork fillet with herbs, cauliflower timbale
What: Burgundian finesse with a Mediterranean soul
Why: For good ageing
Perfect with: Roast quail, pork fillet with herbs, cauliflower timbale
Italy
Aziende Agricole PLANETA S.S. Contrada Dispensa - 92013 Menfi (AG) Sicilia – Italia
Ten years of uninterrupted lava: this is how Etna wrote its longest eruption between 1614 and 1624. Today, those petrified lava flows nourish the roots of an unconventional Pinot Noir, capable of impressing even those who believe that a great volcanic red must necessarily be called Nerello. We are at an altitude of almost 900 metres, in the Sciaranuova district of Castiglione di Sicilia. Here, the vines sink into black sand rich in minerals. The climate is more mountainous than island-like: bright days, cool nights, breezes that dry the grapes and prolong ripening. Here, Planeta has planted a small Pinot vineyard to prove that Sicily can also play “away” with grape varieties from beyond the Alps. Burgundy clones, grafted onto rootstocks suited to volcanic soils, produce sparse bunches and tiny berries; the yield is deliberately low to concentrate aromas and freshness. Harvesting is done by hand at the end of September, in small crates with immediate refrigeration. In the cellar, the destemmed bunches ferment in open tonneaux at a controlled temperature with gentle punching down. This is followed by twelve days of maceration and traditional pressing in a vertical press. Ageing lasts six months in third-use tonneaux, then resting in steel. A light choice designed to let the terroir speak without excessive wood. In the glass, it shines with a transparent ruby colour. The nose plays on nuances of wet flint, graphite and dark fruit, such as wild plum, black cherry, blueberry, notes of ink and violet. In the mouth, it is vertical, with a silky entry, fine but energetic tannins, and crisp juice that lingers in a salty, almost bloody finish, typical of high-altitude reds. The finish is long and flavourful, leaving a pleasant trace of balsamic herbs. Thanks to its natural acidity and measured extraction, the wine can evolve smoothly for 10-15 years, during which time the ferrous notes and volcanic spiciness will blend with elegant tertiary hints of undergrowth and leather.
When it comes to contemporary Sicilian wine, Planeta is one of the first names that comes to mind. The family has been growing vines for seventeen generations, but the real leap in quality came in the 1990s, when cousins Francesca and Alessio Planeta transformed the family farm into a wine-making project spread across the island. Today, Francesca is president, while Alessio, the winemaker, coordinates a production of nearly 2.4 million bottles without compromising on a detailed artisanal approach. The philosophy is as simple as it is ambitious: to tell the story of Sicily as a whole, highlighting the differences in soil, climate and culture of each area. This is why Planeta does not have a single winery, but five estates – Menfi, Vittoria, Noto, Etna and Capo Milazzo – designed as stops on an ideal journey between coastline, highlands and volcanoes. Each site is a bastion of biodiversity and a micro-winemaking laboratory, because “every soil deserves its own voice”. Respect for the environment is the other pillar. From 2022, the entire range will be certified organic. In addition, Planeta adheres to the SOStain protocol, the first sustainability standard designed for Sicilian viticulture. The “Planeta Terra” project goes even further: lighter bottles produced 100% on the island, energy from renewable sources, reforestation of Mediterranean scrub and permanent vegetation cover between the rows. A concrete commitment that transforms sustainability from a slogan into everyday practice.
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