A curious fact to start with. The grape variety that symbolises Aosta Valley whites, Petite Arvine, is not actually native to the region. This white grape was “adopted” by the Aosta Valley, arriving here from neighbouring Switzerland, specifically from the canton of Valais. For this, we must thank a key figure in the region's wine-growing renaissance, Canon Joseph Vaudan, who in the middle of the last century recognised the potential of this grape variety and brought it to the banks of the Dora Baltea. Today, Ottin's Petite Arvine is a clear demonstration of how well this grape variety has integrated, giving us a mountain white wine with a touch of the sea. We are on the hill of Aosta, in the hamlet of Porossan Neyves, where the vineyards enjoy a privileged exposure that guarantees plenty of light and excellent ventilation. Here, viticulture is demanding work, but the result repays every effort. Petite Arvine, a semi-aromatic grape variety known for its late ripening, has found its home in this rocky and windy environment, developing an expressiveness that is second to none. The harvest is, of course, manual and takes place in September. But there is one fundamental detail. After being harvested into crates, the grapes are immediately cooled in a cold room to lock in the aromas and preserve the integrity of the fruit before soft pressing. Whole bunch vinification is followed by two to three weeks of temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks. The wine never sees wood, but matures for seven months on fine lees, always in steel. This technique gives the wine greater structure and aromatic complexity, without sacrificing the lightness and verve that distinguish it. Bottling, in fact, takes place only in July of the year following the harvest. Intense straw yellow in colour, almost reminiscent of white gold, it is engaging and very elegant on the nose. It starts with a distinct sensation of exotic fruit — ripe pineapple and grapefruit — to which are added vegetal notes, with hints of asparagus and rhubarb. Then a hint of mint and fresh aromatic herbs. On the palate, it is a masterpiece of balance between strength and expressiveness. Although full-bodied and concentrated, it is extremely easy to drink. The long, savoury and flavourful finish is excellent, almost mineral-iodised, reminiscent of salt and stone.