Spect.
Suckl.
What: 100% Sagrantino
Why: For its strong but velvety tannins
Perfect with: Grilled Florentine steak, game stew, mature Umbrian pecorino cheese
Wine Spectator
James Suckling
What: 100% Sagrantino
Why: For its strong but velvety tannins
Perfect with: Grilled Florentine steak, game stew, mature Umbrian pecorino cheese
Italy
Imbottigliato all'origine dalla Cantina Colpetrone ia Ponte La Mandria, 8/1, 06035 Marcellano PG
Sagrantino is a wine that is only opened on special occasions in Umbria: Memoira makes it accessible without compromising on character and longevity. But let's proceed in order. Tenuta Còlpetrone is located in Gualdo Cattaneo, one of the hills that form the “balcony of Umbria”, a nickname that comes from the fact that from here you can see from Assisi to Spoleto, passing through Perugia. The vineyards are rooted in clayey-calcareous soils, a legacy of ancient seabeds. The clay retains moisture in the hot months, while the limestone adds flavour. At the same time, the breezes that rise up the Tiber valley have the effect of naturally protecting the grapes from disease. The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG requires 100% Sagrantino grapes and at least 33 months of ageing, including 12 months in wood. A symbol of Umbrian reds with structure, Sagrantino is one of the most tannic grapes in the world and is grown on just 670 hectares. Natural concentration and ageing potential are its distinctive features. In this case, the grapes are harvested in mid-October. In the cellar, they ferment in steel tanks with temperature-controlled maceration and daily pumping over. After racking, the wine is transferred to French oak barriques where it undergoes malolactic fermentation and ages for a long time. This is followed by a further 6 months of ageing in the bottle before release. Dense ruby red in colour, the nose immediately reveals complex aromas of pomegranate, baked plums, blackberries and blood orange, with hints of black pepper and vanilla. Full on the palate, with firm but velvety tannins, balanced by good acidity that lengthens the finish with red fruit and spices. Good, indeed very good, this red wine is ready to drink now, but there is no rush to uncork it. It reaches equilibrium in the bottle after around 10 years, although the best vintages can offer excitement for 15-20 years. It requires richly structured dishes: from grilled Florentine steak to stewed wild boar. Excellent with mature pecorino cheeses or, according to Umbrian tradition, with “torta al testo” stuffed with sausage and sautéed chicory.
Tenute del Cerro embodies a great winemaking dream, which began in 1978 with the acquisition of Fattoria del Cerro in Acquaviva di Montepulciano and Tenuta di Montecorona in Umbria, followed by the addition of other historic estates such as La Poderina in Montalcino, Còlpetrone in the heart of Montefalco, and Monterufoli in the Pisan hills. Today, the group owns almost 5,000 hectares, of which about 300 are vineyards. The result of continuous investment in precision viticulture and technological wineries, the company embraces agriculture 4.0 and sustainability models, guided by high-level management and drawing on the expertise of renowned oenologists such as Riccardo Cotarella. The beating heart of the company is Fattoria del Cerro, the largest private estate within the Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG appellation, with 93 hectares registered in the register. Since 2002, the group has been part of the Japanese multinational Saiwa – now Mitsubishi – through its Italian subsidiary UnipolSai. This link has brought a significant boost in terms of innovation and investment, without altering the agricultural and territorial soul of the estates. An interesting fact: in the heart of the Fattoria del Cerro there is an ancient Etruscan sluice gate, which gives its name to one of the company's most iconic labels. A symbol of deep roots and a thousand-year-old bond with the territory.
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