There is a place in Italy where Pinot Noir stops being a difficult grape variety and becomes pure magic. That place is a small plateau bathed in the light of the setting sun. We are talking about Mazon, an earthly paradise for lovers of this noble variety from Piedmont or beyond the Alps. We are in the municipality of Egna, on the opposite side of the valley from Cortaccia, where the vineyards enjoy a unique west-facing exposure. This hillside captures the final rays of the evening sun, but is immediately cooled by icy winds descending from the surrounding mountains during the night. Interestingly, the history of Mazon is rooted in a centuries-old tradition. As early as the nineteenth century, local noble families had realised that Pinot Noir achieved a finesse here that could not be found elsewhere, to the point that Mazon came to be regarded as Italy’s quintessential cru. In the terroir of Mazon, Pinot Noir reveals its true character. Here it finds the perfect balance between crisp acidity and a silky structure, without ever becoming heavy or overly muscular. The historic vineyards lie at an ideal altitude, where limestone and clay soils force the roots to grow deep into the ground. Cantina Kurtatsch rigorously selects the bunches by hand. Once they reach the winery, fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature with very gentle maceration. This prevents the skins from being overstressed and allows only the noblest components of the fruit to be extracted. The wine then rests in French oak barrels for around 12 months before completing its development with a long period of bottle ageing. In the glass, it has the transparent, bright ruby-red colour typical of the variety. Bringing the glass to the nose reveals an abundance of aromas of crisp cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, enhanced by rose petals and sweet spices. Notes of woodland undergrowth and a delicate smoky nuance emerge in the background. On the palate, it is like a velvet glove. The tannins are exceptionally fine, while the mineral texture supports a focused, fresh and flowing mouthful. The finish is remarkably long and deeply harmonious. It also knows exactly what it is doing at the table. Try it, for example, with duck breast in orange sauce, as the wine’s acidity balances the richness of the meat, while the aromas of small red berries pair perfectly with the sauce. It is also excellent with sesame-crusted seared tuna fillet, where the delicacy of Pinot Noir does not overpower the fish but enhances its succulent texture. Finally, try it with sautéed porcini mushrooms on toasted polenta, a pairing that echoes the Riserva’s woodland aromas.