What: Fermented in French barriques
Why: Offers rare complexity and structure for this grape variety
Perfect with: Sushi, delicate Thai curries or elaborate baked fish dishes
What: Fermented in French barriques
Why: Offers rare complexity and structure for this grape variety
Perfect with: Sushi, delicate Thai curries or elaborate baked fish dishes
Argentina
Bodega El Porvenir de Cafayate – Ruta Nacional 68 Km 6, Cafayate, Salta, Argentina
An Argentine white wine for those who are not looking for the usual label full of perfume but lacking substance. Here, instead, you discover a garden of white flowers blooming at almost two thousand metres above sea level, where the air is so pure that every aroma feels as sharp and clear as a diamond. But let us begin at the beginning. We are in the heart of the Cafayate Valley. Here, Laborum Oak Fermented Torrontés completely redefines the boundaries of Argentina’s signature grape variety. In these valleys, the temperature variation is extreme: the sun beats down intensely during the day, yet at night temperatures plunge dramatically, allowing the grapes to preserve their natural freshness. The sandy and deep soils of this area give the wine subtle minerality and remarkable purity. Torrontés, Argentina’s flagship native white grape, is often vinified in stainless steel to enhance its immediate aromatic expression. The choice made by Bodega El Porvenir, however, is far more daring. This wine comes from grapes selected from a single high-altitude vineyard, where yields per vine are exceptionally low. It is a white wine unafraid of time and noble oak, elevating the grape variety to a higher level of elegance. Unlike simpler versions, this Torrontés is fermented and aged for six months in new French oak barriques. This is far from common for the variety, yet the oak is handled masterfully: it never masks the fruit, but instead softens the edges and adds complexity to the finished wine. Bright and vivid golden-yellow in colour, the nose combines classic notes of orange blossom and jasmine with aromas of white peach and lime zest. The oak ageing slowly reveals delicate hints of vanilla and sweet spices. On the palate, the grape’s typical aromatic intensity is supported by significant structure and enveloping roundness. This is not the usual light white wine, but a full and slightly creamy sip balanced by a fresh streak that cleanses the palate beautifully. When it comes to pairings, forget the obvious combinations. Its structure makes it the ideal companion for Asian cuisine, especially dishes featuring ginger and coconut milk. It is also perfect with seafood risotto or baked sea bass enriched with aromatic herbs and spices.
Today we are in the north of Argentina, where the sky seems closer and the land carries the scent of history and sun-kissed grapes. Here operates Bodega El Porvenir de Cafayate, a family-run winery that has managed to transform the extreme altitude of the Salta province into an opportunity to create wines of remarkable elegance. Its story officially began in 2000, although the roots of the Romero-Marcuzzi family date back to the 1970s, when grandfather Roberto Romero established the first winery in Tolombón. Today, it is his granddaughter Lucía Romero who leads the company with a vision that combines deep respect for tradition with tireless curiosity. The vineyards are located in the Calchaquí Valley, at around 1,750 metres above sea level. The scenery here is breathtaking: towering mountains, sunshine almost all year round and dramatic temperature variations that make all the difference. This contrast between daytime heat and cool nights is the secret behind the freshness of their wines: it allows the grapes to ripen slowly, developing intense aromas and a solid yet never heavy structure. El Porvenir manages four estates here — or rather “fincas” — each with its own personality: from the historic El Retiro, with vines planted in the 1950s, to the spectacular Alto Los Cuises, nestled among rocky slopes where everything, from pruning to harvest, must be carried out strictly by hand.
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