A basalt hill. The air is fresh and the scent of the earth is vivid. In a small corner of paradise like this, Calvarino is born, a wine characterised by a very strong personality. Calvarino is the name of a vineyard owned by the Pieropan family. It is located in the heart of the classic Soave area, on the hills surrounding the Veronese village. The soil here is largely volcanic, rich in basalt, with some limestone veins. It is not easy to work and it is precisely because of its complexity that it derives the name Calvarino, meaning “little Calvary”. Pieropan purchased this land in 1901 and, in 1971, the first “cru” from white grapes in Italy was born. Classico means that the grapes are grown in historic municipalities, including Soave and Monteforte d'Alpone, in the most suitable area, the hills of Soave. Calvarino is a blend of 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave. Garganega brings elegance, flavour and the ability to reflect the terroir. Trebbiano, on the other hand, contributes freshness and lightness, slightly softening the structure without detracting from its personality. The vines are between 30 and 60 years old. They are trained using the Pergola Veronese and Guyot systems and are located at about 200-300 metres above sea level, with western exposure. The soil, as mentioned, is volcanic, well-drained and has a strong influence on the final character of the wine. Harvesting is done manually, often with a double pass to select only the ripest bunches. Once in the cellar, the grapes are destemmed, gently pressed and nitrogen is used to reduce unwanted oxidation. Fermentation is controlled in vitrified cement tanks. The subsequent ageing lasts a minimum of 12-15 months and takes place in contact with the fine lees, with weekly bâtonnage to give greater complexity to the finished wine. It has a beautiful straw yellow colour, with greenish reflections when it is still young. These reflections tend towards golden with ageing. The nose offers a broad bouquet, with white flowers such as acacia, elderflower and jasmine. Then aromatic herbs, sage and lemon thyme, followed by ripe fruit, yellow peach and lemon apple, with slight tropical hints. The finish is reminiscent of fresh almonds. All this is well supported by a mineral thread reminiscent of basalt soil. On the palate, it is vertical and elegant, with a good balance between lively acidity and savouriness. The finish is long, persistent and refreshing. This is not a simple wine: it demands attention, but rewards you with depth. It pairs well with creamy dishes, well-creamed cheese risottos or cheese soufflés. It is also excellent with fish, shellfish and seafood.
When talking about Soave, it is difficult to ignore the name of the Pieropan winery. Not just a simple company but a real institution that has been expressing the soul of this Veneto region for almost 140 years. The Pieropan family's adventure began way back in 1880, when Leonildo was the first to realise the potential of the vineyards on the volcanic slopes of Soave Classico. Today, his great-grandchildren Andrea and Dario are at the helm, having inherited an important legacy: not only a “famous” name but also a philosophy that focuses on respect for tradition while looking to the future. This is where bottles are produced that tell the story of a unique place with elegance and authenticity. But to truly understand a Pieropan wine, you first need to understand where it comes from. We are in Soave, in a corner of Veneto that is not only of rare beauty but also a combination of natural factors. Here, the soil is volcanic, dark and rocky. It is a soil that “stresses” the vines, pushing them to give their best and giving the wines produced here an unmistakable minerality and sapidity. This is the secret that makes Soave Classico so vibrant and persistent. But it is not only the soil that makes the difference. The vineyards, all owned by the winery, extend over gentle hills, perfectly exposed to the sun and caressed by a constant breeze that keeps the grapes healthy and concentrated. The vineyards are also cultivated organically, respecting the cycle of nature, without compromise. The grapes are harvested by hand, with meticulous care, to ensure that only the best bunches arrive at the winery. It is an ethical choice, but also an oenological one, which translates into superior quality.