A grape variety saved by the stubborn determination of a few winegrowers who saw in the Tortona area a potential worthy of the great white wines of Burgundy. The Derthona Antica Zerba by Cantine Volpi is the result of all this. But let’s proceed step by step. We are in the south-east of Piedmont, in a small corner of land where the Apennines meet the Po Valley. Here the soils are composed of blue marls and limestone that give the wines a backbone of steel. Here Timorasso, an ancient and difficult grape variety that prefers quality over quantity, is the undisputed protagonist. The denomination Derthona, the ancient Roman name of the city of Tortona, now identifies the highest expression of pure Timorasso. Cantine Volpi interprets this denomination with a focus on clarity and precision. 100% Timorasso, the grapes are harvested only when they reach full ripeness, a fundamental step to soften the natural acidity of the variety. The secret of this wine, however, lies entirely in its aging on fine lees in stainless steel. Thanks to bâtonnage, the stirring of the lees, the wine gains roundness and becomes even more pleasant on the palate. In the glass Antica Zerba appears with an intense straw-yellow color enhanced by golden reflections that anticipate its consistency. On the nose it is a layered journey starting with fresh fruit such as white peach and ripe pear, then moving toward hints of honey and almond. With oxygenation those notes of hydrocarbons and flint emerge that make this wine unmistakable. On the palate it is full and enveloping but crossed by a line of acidity and salinity that cleanses the palate and invites another sip. The finish is very long with a citrus return that leaves a lasting impression. A white wine that is in no hurry. Although enjoyable right away, Derthona has surprising aging potential and can easily evolve for 5–8 years. Over time the mineral character will take over, making it even more fascinating.