What: From one of Alto Adige’s warmest and most prestigious crus
Why: For its aromatic intensity
Perfect with: Spicy Asian dishes, intensely flavoured blue cheeses
James Suckling
What: From one of Alto Adige’s warmest and most prestigious crus
Why: For its aromatic intensity
Perfect with: Spicy Asian dishes, intensely flavoured blue cheeses
Italy
Cantina Cortaccia, Strada del vino 23, 39040 Cortaccia (BZ)
A glass of Gewürztraminer Brenntal delivers an explosion of aromas that feels almost magical. We are in Cortaccia, in the southernmost part of Alto Adige. Brenntal is no ordinary vineyard but a natural amphitheatre, bathed in intense sunshine that beats down on its clay-rich, mineral soils. The name Brenntal literally means “burnt valley” in German. It tells an ancient story of scorching summers and grapes that reach exceptional levels of concentration here. This hillside’s great advantage is the afternoon ventilation. The Ora del Garda, a warm wind that rises from the nearby lake, flows through the rows and prevents moisture from accumulating. This microclimate allows the vines to produce only a small number of bunches, but ones that are rich in extract and natural sugars. Made entirely from Gewürztraminer, in the Brenntal cru this variety loses any overly flattering or cloying character. Instead, it develops a solid backbone capable of transforming the grape’s typical exuberance into pure elegance. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand and undergo an extremely rigorous selection directly among the vines. In the winery, the winemaking team works with meticulous precision to preserve the aromatic potential of the skins. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature. The wine then rests for several months on its fine lees. Part of it matures in large wooden casks and part in stainless-steel tanks. This combination is the true secret behind its production. The wood adds structure and softness, while the stainless steel preserves the freshness and precision of the fruit. Intense, bright golden yellow in colour, the nose immediately reveals clear aromas of rose petals and lychee, followed by mango, tropical fruit and candied orange peel. Oriental spices such as ginger and clove emerge on the finish. On the palate, the opening is rich, dense and enveloping. Its remarkable consistency with the aromas on the nose is striking, but the real surprise is the fresh, mineral backbone that cleanses the palate beautifully, leaving an exceptionally long and aromatic finish. Try it with spicy Asian dishes such as chicken curry or with intensely flavoured blue cheeses.
In the heart of Alto Adige, where Alpine contrasts meet the mildness of the Mediterranean climate, stands Cantina Kurtatsch. This historic cooperative brings together the voices, hard work and passion of no fewer than 190 winegrowing families. Each family cultivates small plots of land as though they were their own gardens, passing down a deep-rooted connection with the land from one generation to the next. The winery’s production philosophy is based on a concept that is as simple as it is rigorous: the perfect wine can only be born in the right place. For Kurtatsch, this is not a slogan but a genuine daily mission guided by the principle of zoning. In an area characterised by remarkable differences in altitude, each individual grape variety is planted exclusively where it can find its ideal habitat. Within just a few kilometres, the landscape changes from sun-drenched vineyards on the valley floor to the most extreme rows of vines, climbing vertiginously steep slopes to altitudes of up to 900 metres. Conducting this impressive wine orchestra is a team of passionate young professionals who combine ancient craftsmanship with a modern, dynamic vision. One of the company’s most distinctive choices is its tangible and ongoing commitment to sustainability and the protection of biodiversity in the vineyard. Work among the vines is carried out almost entirely by hand, partly because of the steep terrain but also as a deliberate choice to guarantee the complete integrity of every single bunch before it reaches the winery. Here, the winemaking style aims for maximum purity and precision, protecting the grapes’ primary aromatic character and ensuring that neither wood nor winemaking techniques ever overpower the original soul of the variety and its terroir.
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